The Furibee F36’s stock 150mAh batteries are good for around 5 minutes of flying. But that’s without FPV gear. With FPV gear, that goes down to around 3 minutes. If you want to get back some of that flying time, you’ll have to put in bigger batteries.
There are threeÂ problems with bigger batteries. First, they will be a tight fit (or won’tÂ at all) in the stock battery bay. Second, they will cover the battery connector. Third, they will offset the center of gravity. We need to address these problems before we can fly.
Continue reading “Furibee F36 Big Batt Mod”
I want to install the Flysky A8S receiver on the KingKong Smart100 but, unfortunately, the cable that came with the receiver requires directly soldering to the flight controller board. There’s already a 4-pin JST-SH connector in place and it’s better to use that. I didn’t have a 4-pin JST-SH connectors but I did have two 3-pin JST-SH connectors from my video transmitters. That’s something we can work with.
Continue reading “DIY SBUS Cable”
Upgraded my F36 transmitter sticks. The extensions were a little loose but nothing that a dab of glue couldn’t fix. The resulting longer travel translates your thumb input to smaller angles so the quad is not as twitchy and abrupt as before. Plus looks more like a proper transmitter now!
The Furibee F36 transmitter with its internal antenna doesn’t have much range. This is fine with line of sight (LOS) flying but with first-person view (FPV) flying, you’d probably want a bit more range. We can drill a hole through the casing and thread the antenna through and out of it which can increase range. But why stop there? Let’s install an external antenna.
Continue reading “Furibee F36 Transmitter Antenna Mod”
I burnt out my VTX03 during a crash so I got and installed a VTX01 on my Tiny Whoop. But this afternoon, I was inspecting it when I noticed a burnt component. At first, I thought it was a capacitor. First step is to find out the part number. But the component was burnt beyond recognition. So I searched for photos that show the part and found this:
After some more digging, I found out that the burnt component is actually a resistor, a zero-ohm link. Link, that’s like connect, bridge. So I just simply bridged the terminals of the burnt resistor with a bit of solder.
And just like that the VTX03 lit up back to life!