I wanted to practice acro mode flying so I did a rebuild of my Furibee F36-based low-profile tiny whoop.
Continue reading “Low-Profile Tiny Whoop Build II (Loki Build)”
Furibee F36 Big Batt Mod
The Furibee F36’s stock 150mAh batteries are good for around 5 minutes of flying. But that’s without FPV gear. With FPV gear, that goes down to around 3 minutes. If you want to get back some of that flying time, you’ll have to put in bigger batteries.
There are three problems with bigger batteries. First, they will be a tight fit (or won’t at all) in the stock battery bay. Second, they will cover the battery connector. Third, they will offset the center of gravity. We need to address these problems before we can fly.
DIY SBUS Cable
I want to install the Flysky A8S receiver on the KingKong Smart100 but, unfortunately, the cable that came with the receiver requires directly soldering to the flight controller board. There’s already a 4-pin JST-SH connector in place and it’s better to use that. I didn’t have a 4-pin JST-SH connectors but I did have two 3-pin JST-SH connectors from my video transmitters. That’s something we can work with.
Furibee F36 Transmitter Stick Mod
Upgraded my F36 transmitter sticks. The extensions were a little loose but nothing that a dab of glue couldn’t fix. The resulting longer travel translates your thumb input to smaller angles so the quad is not as twitchy and abrupt as before. Plus looks more like a proper transmitter now!
Furibee F36 Transmitter Antenna Mod
The Furibee F36 transmitter with its internal antenna doesn’t have much range. This is fine with line of sight (LOS) flying but with first-person view (FPV) flying, you’d probably want a bit more range. We can drill a hole through the casing and thread the antenna through and out of it which can increase range. But why stop there? Let’s install an external antenna.