Low-Profile Tiny Whoop Build II (Loki Build)

I wanted to practice acro mode flying so I did a rebuild of my Furibee F36-based low-profile tiny whoop.

Parts and Equipment

For this build, I used the following:

  1. Beecore Flysky AFHDS 2A flight controller
  2. Eachine VTX01 5.8GHz video transmitter
  3. Generic 600TVL 100 degree field of view camera
  4. Chaoli CL-615 59000rpm motors
  5. Rakonheli hydrographics canopy
  6. Rakonheli 31mm 3-blade clear propellers
  7. Soldering iron
  8. Soldering wire
  9. Wire snips
  10. Double-sided tape

Build Procedure

  1. First, I had to remove everything from the frame. This also required unsoldering the camera. After taking note of the contact points, I unsoldered all the wires from the camera.
  2. I installed the motors.
  3. I test-mounted the video transmitter on the new flight controller. I tried to put the video transmitter under the flight controller. It’s a tight fit between the motor connector but it fit!
  4. I mounted video transmitter to the flight controller using 3M double-sided tape. It also acts to insulate the two boards.
  5. With the video transmitter firmly in place, I soldered the wires for the power (thicker red and black wires) to the VCC and GND pads of the flight controller.
  6. I also soldered the wires for the micro losi pigtail direct to VCC and GND pads of the flight controller.
  7. I mounted the flight controller and video transmitter assembly into the frame.
  8. I soldered the wires from the video transmitter into their corresponding contact points on the camera. It’s just color matching: black to black, yellow to yellow, and finally red to red.
  9. I used 3M double-sided tape to mount the camera.
  10. I installed the canopy. It didn’t fit well. The bind button was being pushed and the micro USB port was blocking the way. I had to make cutouts on the canopy.
  11. Finally, I installed the canopy.

And that’s it. I now have a low-profile, low-key (hence Loki), Tiny Whoop.

Furibee F36 Big Batt Mod

The Furibee F36’s stock 150mAh batteries are good for around 5 minutes of flying. But that’s without FPV gear. With FPV gear, that goes down to around 3 minutes. If you want to get back some of that flying time, you’ll have to put in bigger batteries.

There are three problems with bigger batteries. First, they will be a tight fit (or won’t at all) in the stock battery bay. Second, they will cover the battery connector. Third, they will offset the center of gravity. We need to address these problems before we can fly.

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Tiny Whoop Battery Connectors

Here are common Tiny Whoop battery connectors you will encounter.

JST PH 2.0
2mm pin distance; Also known as MCPX, JST-2.0; Found in the Furibee F36, Eachine E010/11, JJRC H36.

Molex Battery 2.0

2mm pin distance; Also known as Micro Losi, Walkera; Found on many toy quads and batteries.

Molex Battery 1.25
1.25mm pin distance; Also known as Molex Picoblade, E-flite, JST-1.25 (wrong term since JST-GH is the real 1.25 JST connector); Found on Blade Inductrix and KingKong Tiny 6/7.


I want to install the Flysky A8S receiver on theKingKong Smart100 but, unfortunately, the cable that came with the receiver requires directly soldering to the flight controller board. There’s already a 4-pin JST-SH connector in place and it’s better to use that. I didn’t have a 4-pin JST-SH connectors but I did havetwo 3-pin JST-SH connectors from my video transmitters. That’s something we can work with.

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